The Complete Guide to Fabric Types for Custom Printing — Cotton, Polyester, and Everything In Between.

June 12, 2026

Print Education · Fabric Guide

The Complete Guide to Fabric Types for Custom Printing —
Cotton, Polyester, and Everything In Between.

Not all fabrics print the same. Choosing the wrong one for your technique wastes money and produces poor results. Inkcora's production team explains exactly which fabric works best for each printing method.

By the Inkcora Team · 8 min read · Beverly, MA

Fabric TypesCotton vs PolyesterPrint CompatibilityMaterial Guide

By the Numbers

45%

of printing issues trace back to fabric-technique mismatch

100%

polyester required for optimal sublimation results

fabric families that cover 95% of all custom apparel orders

300+

fabric SKUs available through Inkcora's blank catalog

Source: Textile Printing Association 2025 · Inkcora Production Data

The most common question Inkcora's production team receives isn't about design. It isn't about color. It's a variation of: "Can you print on this?"

The answer is almost always yes — but the technique that works on one fabric produces poor results on another. Understanding the relationship between fabric and print method is the difference between a uniform that looks professional after two years and one that cracks after two washes.

This guide covers the four major fabric families used in custom apparel, and exactly which print technique works best for each.

The Four Fabric Families

01Most Common · Best for Screen Print

100% Cotton

Best techniques: Screen printing, DTF, HTV

Cotton is the most common fabric in custom apparel and the most forgiving for printing. It absorbs ink well, produces vibrant colors, and works with every major decoration technique. Screen printing on cotton produces the boldest, most durable results — the ink bonds strongly with the natural fibers and holds through repeated washing.

Cotton's limitation: it is not suitable for sublimation. The sublimation process requires synthetic fibers to open and absorb the ink in gas form. On cotton, the ink sits on the surface rather than bonding with the fiber, resulting in a washed-out, faded print.

💡 Inkcora InsightFor corporate t-shirts, casual uniforms, and event apparel, 100% cotton or a cotton-rich blend (90/10 cotton/poly) is our most recommended substrate for screen printing. It produces the richest colors and longest-lasting results at the best value per unit.

02Performance Wear · Best for Sublimation

100% Polyester

Best techniques: Sublimation, DTF

Polyester is the required substrate for sublimation printing. The synthetic fibers open under heat to absorb the sublimation ink permanently — producing colors that are part of the fabric itself, not sitting on top of it. The result is a print that breathes, stretches, and performs with the fabric, with zero risk of cracking, peeling, or fading.

Polyester works well with DTF printing too, though sublimation is preferred when the garment is white or light-colored and performance is a priority. Screen printing on polyester is possible but presents challenges: the heat of the curing process can cause synthetic fibers to "ghost" — a faint bleed of the fabric's own dye into the printed area.

03Most Versatile · Works with Everything

Cotton/Polyester Blends

Best techniques: DTF, HTV, Screen printing (50/50 and above cotton)

Blended fabrics — typically 50/50, 60/40, or 90/10 cotton/poly — are the most versatile substrate for custom printing. They combine the soft hand feel of cotton with the moisture-wicking properties of polyester, and they work with DTF, HTV, and screen printing reliably.

The specific blend ratio matters. A 50/50 blend can be screen printed successfully with the right technique. A 90/10 polyester-dominant blend behaves more like pure polyester and carries the same ghosting risk with screen printing. When in doubt, DTF is the safest technique for any blend.

💡 Inkcora InsightFor corporate polos and performance-oriented team apparel where comfort and print quality both matter, we typically recommend a 60/40 cotton/poly blend. It prints well with DTF, holds color through repeated washing, and has the comfort properties that make it a daily-wear garment rather than a drawer piece.

04Specialty · Handle with Care

Specialty Fabrics: Nylon, Fleece, Canvas, Denim

Best techniques: DTF, HTV (fabric-dependent)

Specialty fabrics require technique-specific consideration. Nylon (common in jackets, bags, and workwear) works well with DTF and HTV but not with screen printing, which requires a flat, absorbent surface. Fleece can be screen printed on the flat panels but requires special handling around the nap. Canvas (common in tote bags) accepts screen printing and DTF reliably. Denim works with DTF and HTV but presents challenges for screen printing due to the weave texture.

For any specialty fabric order, submit a sample or confirm the fabric composition with your print partner before production begins.

Quick Reference: Fabric vs. Technique

Fabric	Screen Print	DTF	HTV	Sublimation
100% Cotton	Excellent	Very Good	Good	Not Suitable
100% Polyester	Caution*	Good	Good	Excellent
50/50 Cotton/Poly	Good	Excellent	Very Good	Not Suitable
Nylon	Not Suitable	Good	Very Good	Not Suitable
Canvas / Twill	Very Good	Good	Conditional	Not Suitable

*Screen printing on polyester requires dye-blocking underbase and temperature-controlled curing to prevent ghosting. Consult your print partner before ordering.